Current state of the art For an engineer in me, these sarees appeal as an aesthetic geometric puzzle with precision. For centuries, Patola has been considered an auspicious heirloom. In fact, it took 34 years of constant research for two Swiss writers, Alfred Buhler and Eberhard Fischer, to pen a book The Patola of Gujarat. Designs in Telia Rumaal is sharper than Pochampally Ikat & Rajkot Patola sarees, while Patan Patola is the sharpest of all Ikat sarees. This unique weave, usually made from silk, is a double Ikat and combines the techniques of tying, dyeing and weaving. The first step involves tying of the yarn with cotton thread according to the pattern that has been decided. The book was published in 1979. These sarees were also mentioned in a 2000 year old Jain holy book, the 'Kalpsutra'. Telia Rumaal and Bhoodan Pochampally: One of the most unique of all Indian Ikat weaving forms is the Telia Rumaal from Andhra Pradesh, where the yarn is not only tied-dyed, but is also treated with a special oil to give the fabric a characteristic sheen. The motifs are mostly geometrical and repetitive – large, well-defined diamonds, hexagons, squares are the usual design bases, you will find in the Telia Rumaal Ikat. Do you know, what seems like printed designs on fabric is actually a complex & laborious weaving style that uses specially dyed threads to develop a pattern on the fabric as the weaver weaves along? They are Sambalpuri, also called as Bandha or Pasappalli. This is a single Ikat. Thus there have been many variations in the technique of Ikat, but Patola is counted among the most exquisite. Over the years, these three regions developed their own style of Ikat weaving – each distinct in pattern and the way the yarn is dyed and used. No wonder, the ‘real’ Patolas are extremely rare and expensive A pure Patola saree costs no less than Rs. Patan Patola variant of double Ikat originated in India. From a mention in the Kalpsutra, a 2000-year-old Jain holy book, to carvings in the Ajanta caves, and numerous folk tales in different languages – from Gujarati to Telugu, the Patola sarees make for a fascinating subject. The woman could pitch in along with men in the family. Talking about why passing down the “family-secret” to the daughters has been followed for generations, Rohit bhai says, “Earlier, since you would find an alliance within the community of Patola weavers, the know-how of weaving was essential. While today the Patola sarees is synonymous with Patan, even earning it the geographical indication (GI) tag, the craftsmen were originally from Maharashtra. Double Ikat involves both warp and weft threads tied in a greatly precise manner so that when the threads from both axis mesh with each other at certain points to show up a completed pattern. That’s how the Patan Patola Heritage Museum came into existence in 2014.
Origin/History: Ikat (Ikkat or Ikhat as also other pronunciations), an Indonesian word Mengikat that means to tie, knot or bind a yarn or threads, describes a textile which is handwoven after the warp or weft of the fabric is tied and resist dyed for intricate patterns. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Both sides of the fabric have the exact same design and hence, you can wear a Patan Patola either way. It takes the combined effort of four weavers anywhere between four to six months, sometimes even more, to weave a single saree. Patola silks are highly appreciated abroad, but their importance has yet to be identified within the country and the younger generation has to be educated in the preservation of such heritage crafts. The art of Ikat which is integral to Patola has been popular in many countries across the world, especially in South East Asia and Central Asia. There are more than 9-10 varieties/variations of Ikat techniques and scores of patterns available.
One has to first understand Ikat techniques.
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